Foodways & Craftways Retreat
Mokkei x Hanamurasaki | April 26–29, 2026
EARLY BIRD SPECIAL, 20% OFF FOR THE FIRST 3 GROUPS, UNTIL JANUARY 31
For full details and booking, please visit www.hana-mura.com/english/local-experience/yamanaka-onsen-retreat
This four-day immersion in the culinary and craft culture of Yamanaka Onsen is hosted by Hannah Kirshner—a writer on Japanese food, craft and ecology—and Kohei Yamada, the 6th-generation owner of Hanamurasak ryokan, a hot spring hotel showcasing the height of Japanese hospitality. Guests stay in luxury at Hanamurasaki, while experiencing rustic activities in the open-air kitchen at Mokkei, and around Yamanaka. As the days pass, experiences layer to tell a story of Yamanaka, a mountain village with a long history of cultural exchange and sophisticated craft and culinary traditions.
Day 1: Sunday, April 26
TRANSFORMATION
15:00 arrival and welcome tea
After checking in, come to the sabo for a cup of tea blended by Kohei with wild plants harvested by Hannah. The first day of our retreat focuses on transformation—through fermentation, cooking processes, and the deep calm you experience at Hanamurasaki.
18:00 sake brewer Fumiaki Matsuura
Come to Hanamurasaki’s library to learn about koji, the beneficial mold that is essential to the fermentation of sake, miso, and soy sauce. Fumiaki Matsuura, the owner and head brewer of the local sake, Shishi-no-sato, shares his reverence for the power of koji, and explains how he makes and uses koji rice.
18:30 welcome dinner
The conversation about koji and fermentation continues over dinner with Hanamurasaki chef, Masakazu Nakamura. Get to know your hosts and fellow guests as you share a meal that highlights fermented flavors of the region through ingredients like salt made with Matsuura’s sake, irizake (a traditional Edo-period seasoning), and ishiru (fish sauce from the Noto peninsula).
Day 2: Monday, April 27
DASHI: THE FOUNDATION OF JAPANESE FLAVOR
breakfast at Hanamurasaki
Choose Japanese or Western style.
10:00 nature walk and foraging
Walk with Kohei along Kakusenkei gorge from Hanamurasaki to Mokkei, enjoying the scenery of the icy blue river and deep green moss and ferns. In the field around Mokkei, harvest sansai (wild vegetables and herbs) with Hannah.
11:00 dashi workshop with Naoya Yamazaki at Mokkei
Gather around the big table in the outdoor kitchen at Mokkei for a deep dive into dashi, the foundation of Japanese flavor, with chef Naoya Yamazaki from Engawa sake bar. Key ingredients of this essential broth were introduced across Japan by kitamaebune, merchant ships whose sailors also influenced Yamanaka’s rich folk music.
13:00 lunch at Mokkei
Lunch in the outdoor kitchen features sansai you harvested, dashi you cooked, pickles made at Mokkei throughout the year, and dishes prepared by chef Naoya Yamazaki—all served on tableware from local artisans.
14:30 afternoon craft tour or free time
Split into two groups. Group A visits the studio of a Yamanaka lacquerware artisan, while group B has free time to relax at Hanamurasaki or explore the town (the next day the groups will switch.) Besides onsen, Yamanaka is famous for its lacquerware, Yamanaka shikki. See behind-the-scenes how this work is made and reimagined by contemporary artisans.
kaiseki dinner at Hanamurasaki
Enjoy a quiet dinner alone or with your travel companion. Everything from the ingredients to the tableware is an expression of the season and local specialties, thoughtfully composed by Kohei and chef Masakazu Nakamura.
Day 3: Tuesday, April 28
YAMANAKA’S WAY OF TEA
breakfast at Hanamurasaki
Choose Japanese or Western style.
10:00 wagashi workshop at Mokkei
Wagashi, Japanese sweets, vary by region and by season. Asami Kuroda, a confectioner at the Yamanaka sweets shop Sankaido, explains the seasonality and symbolism of wagashi, then guides us through shaping namagashi, fresh sweet-bean confections associated with tea ceremony.
11:30 the Yamanaka way of tea with Toshio Oshita
Hannah takes you to the home of her neighbor and tea teacher Toshi Oshita for a tea ceremony experience. Experience how Japanese values and aesthetics are entwined with this highly-choreographed exchange between host and guest.
13:00 lunch at Mokkei
Local hunter Sakura Yoshida joins us to cook game meat and talk about how her work is connected to the ecology of Yamanaka. Share shishi-nabe (wild boar hot pot) cooked at the table, and served with Hannah’s homemade yuzu-kosho.
14:30 afternoon craft tour or free time
Today group B visits the studio of a Yamanaka lacquerware artisan, while group A has free time to relax at Hanamurasaki or explore the town (the next day the groups will switch.)
18:00 Engawa sake bar
Gather for a final meal all together at this friendly gastro-pub style bar. The sake-obsessive owner, Yusuke Shimoki, shares his knowledge with warmth and passion—and you may notice echoes of tea ceremony. Sake and non-alcohol pairings are included.
Day 4: Wednesday, October 29
LOCAL EXPLORATION
breakfast at Hanamurasaki
Choose Japanese or Western style.
10:00 checkout and tea with Kohei
Leave your luggage at the front desk, then join Kohei for a final tea and farewell.
optional activities
Explore Yamanaka on your own with personalized recommendations, or allow us to book one of the following activities for you.
rickshaw tour (no additional cost, may be cancelled in case of rain)
Ride around Yamanaka in a vintage Rickshaw, recently brought back to life by Yoshi Omi, a rickshaw driver from Kyoto, after decades as a museum piece. Hear Yamanaka’s fascinating stories and lore as Omi takes you to historic and scenic spots.
kintsugi workshop (transportation fee not included)
Experience a private session with Master Shigeki Yagi, a renowned artist who collaborated with FIAT and repairs world-class antiques. Learn the delicate art of gold-repair directly from the master and take home your own restored piece.
nature hike in Ozuchi village (transportation fee not included)
Explore the nostalgic landscapes of a tiny village, guided by its only resident. designated as a. Guided by a local, you’ll discover wild mountain treasures and crystal-clear rivers hidden deep within Yamanaka’s forests, National Important Preservation District.
The exact schedule and activities may change due to weather, illness, or other elements beyond our control, but we will make reasonable (and delightful) substitutions.
What it Costs
EARLY BIRD, first three groups to sign up by January 31
¥680,000 per person, double occupancy
¥752,000 per person, single occupancy
REGULAR PRICE
¥850,000 per person, double occupancy
¥922,000 per person, single occupancy
For full details and booking, please visit www.hana-mura.com/english/local-experience/yamanaka-onsen-retreat
What’s Included
transportation to and from Kaga Onsen train station
luxury accommodation at a 6th-generation family-run ryokan
onsen (hot spring baths)
3 dinners, 3 breakfasts, and 2 lunches featuring the best local and seasonal ingredients
tea ceremony
4–5 experiences with local artisans and experts
hands-on foraging and cooking
interpretation by hosts and translators with specialized knowledge
personalized advice and reservations for local places during free time